Friday 4 April 2014

RESEARCH // COSTUME _ Basic Men's Fashion





Focusing mostly on the rich guys with this one, but let me know if you need more info on the "common man"

(also taking a couple of pages from here
http://www.houseofpung.net/sca/15c_mens_italian.pdf
because they're perfectly explained already and I'd just be wasting time recreating it)

Firstly, the basics




It seems that richer men at this time would've had soles set into their hose so they could go without wearing boots. 

Whereas poorer men would've had only stirrups to keep their hose in place. 


Essentially through this century, as women's dresses became fuller, men's shirts got shorter. 

This was to bring attention to the hose and the men's shapely legs.


These "shirts" (the men's kirtle basically, worn under almost everything) was the "doublet"


From here richer/higher men would add coats. They can get extremely detailed (like the very first example) and pleated to show off the men's status and money.



For a more reserved but still very wealthy man, I would suggest going with a Mantello, with it's very simple, clean cut and subdued colours.




From what I can tell so far, red at this time was very associated with power and wealth. But I think I'll go further into colour theory of this time in a future post because it's probably very different to now, and should help out in the design choices later.



LINK DUMP (if you're interested in more info)

http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/15thcenturymensclothing.pdf
(very resourced)

http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/doublets.html
(a lot about doublets)

http://www.florentine-persona.com/menflorence.html
(different classes)

http://www.revivalclothing.com/article-the15thcentury.aspx
(small section)

http://www.houseofpung.net/sca/15c_mens_italian.pdf
(a lot of keywords) (and photo refs)


http://www.german-hosiery-museum.de/geschichte/geschichte_06.htm
(menintights)

http://www.medieval-life-and-times.info/medieval-clothing/medieval-noble-clothing.htm
(timeline)

http://fashionhistory.zeesonlinespace.net/medieval.html
(two genders, a lot of words, diff. classes)

http://web.ceu.hu/medstud/manual/SRM/costumes.htm
(seems like an overview+colours)



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